If something gets lodged in your dog or cat's mouth or throat and they start to choke, our Memphis emergency veterinarians recommend following these steps to help your pet.
If your dog or cat is experiencing any of these symptoms, follow the steps below and get to our office as soon as possible for emergency intervention. First, restrain your pet. Choking cats and dogs will struggle, and this can potentially cause them harm. If they are choking because a cord, string or other item is wrapped around the neck, carefully use a pair of scissors to cut it off. If the cat or dog is choking on something lodged in their mouth or throat, open the mouth to see if you can locate the object.
Simply turning and facing them with direct eye contact is going to prevent this. Very, very, very few dogs are going to do this, at least not to me anyway.
Dogs sense strength and confidence in my body posture, eye contact and voice. For those dogs that don't leave after a minute, I can slowly and I mean slowly back out of their territory.
Which, depending on the dog, could possibly be quite some distance. I testified in court several years ago against a lady in Kansas whose Rots killed a 9 year old boy. These were allowed to roam the neighborhood. They considered their territory circle of several blocks around their home. By the way, this women is now serving 11 years in prison.
It's too bad that she will not spend more time there. She had no remorse. The average person can do the same thing that I do when they are confronted by a nervous dog. What they don't want to do is turn and run. No matter how scared you are, you can't out run a dog, and running will only trigger prey drive and increase the possibility of an attack and being bitten. The second group of dogs, those that know how to fight humans , are a different situation.
The only way to deal with an attack from these dogs is to climb a tree or fight them. As the dog approaches, I would square off and offer a target, my left arm. Trained dogs have almost all been started on left arm bites.
I would stand in a balanced position similar to someone trained in Karate. As the dog approached, usually at a run, I would wait until the dog was about 3 meters away and swing my arm up in front of and across my body. As I do this, I quickly pivot to the side and jerk the arm away just as the dog was about to grip the arm. This is done when the dog is in the air with his mouth open, in other words "at the last possible instant. As the dog goes flying by I would try and disable the dog with a strong kick to the back of the ribs or groin.
The odds are this would not work. The majority of these dogs will turn and come again. The second time will not allow as much planning. I have been successful in 3 passes of a dog before it was stopped by it's owner. When an untrained dog misses a bite three times in a row it's nerves get turned on. When that happens these dogs can be pushed into flight with an aggressive move towards them.
I have no idea how many times in the past 20 years that I have fought police dogs in muzzle fighting training, more than I can remember. I can say that the more experience one has the better you get at fighting dogs. I have run tough KNPV trained dogs that were sent after me in muzzle. With that said the fact is the more experience a dog gets at fighting humans Schutzhund training is not considered fighting humans the better they get too.
What gets difficult is when an experienced dog goes for your legs. Most police dogs that have bitten a lot of people will learn that leg bites are more successful than arm or upper body bites. They figure out, through experience, that the last part of the body to move are the legs.
French ring dogs know this too. But most French Ring dogs would not bite a person if their life depended on it kind of reminds me of the French government. One of my best friend's police dog broke a criminals leg when he hit him at a dead run. This dog figured out that the weight-bearing leg was the best target. There was an error processing this form.
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